For the sake of argument references to ‘beer’ and ‘ale’ are generic. Strictly speaking ale is beer without hops. The significance of this will be come apparent later.

Early brewers

5000 years ago the Sumerians, who lived in what is now Iraq, wrote down recipes for brewing beer. Archaeological evidence from Africa and China suggests that forms of brewing existed long before the Sumerians recorded it. The ancient Egyptians held beer in high regard. They flavoured it with herbs and spices and thought of it as a medicine. It was significant enough to be buried with the Pharaohs and used as an offering to the gods.

Once the cultivation of grains became established, the brewing of beer spread to Europe. It proved particularly popular with tribes in the North and West, where grains grew well. Beer became deeply engrained in their culture and was integrated into religious ceremonies and was central to their way of life. In Norse mythology a warrior who died in battle would go to Valhalla and be entitled to drink as much beer as he wanted, although he would have referred to it as ‘ealu’ (ale).

Don’t drink the water

Centuries later, the importance of beer hadn’t waned. Population growth and industrial processes had led to pollution of rivers and wells. In medieval England, beer was safer to drink than water and was seen as a wholesome, healthy drink. Boiling the water in the brewing process and its alcoholic content, had a sterilising effect.

Beers of different strengths were brewed according to their use. For everyday drinking a weak or ‘small’ beer was produced, a stronger brew for leisure and the strongest for religious or ceremonial occasions.

In the Middle Ages brewing was seen as women’s work. They would brew beer as naturally as baking bread. Some brewed more than they needed and sold the excess. These women were known as ‘alewives’ and were usually poor, often widows, trying to make ends meet, brewing when they had enough money to buy the ingredients. It was not until the early industrialisation of brewing that men became involved.

Until then, the only men who brewed on a regular basis were monks. Monasteries not only brewed beer for themselves, but also for travellers and pilgrims. Monks became so successful at brewing they sold their beers to help fund their monasteries. In Europe some monasteries still have brewing businesses, a few with million dollar turnovers. In England the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII put an end to all that.

Hops and lager

Two significant landmarks in beer production were the introduction of hops and the invention of bottom fermentation. Hops were added to beer in Europe as early as the 8 th century, but weren’t used in England until 700 years later. They were used as a preservative to prevent the beer going sour, which was an all too regular occurrence. Hops added bitterness and aroma too, which at first met with resistance; the English drank ale, a sweeter, stronger drink. With the addition of hops it became beer, an oversimplification perhaps, but a way to distinguish what was on offer. Beer’s popularity grew, not least because it was cheaper and more reliable to produce. It wasn’t long before the terms beer and ale became interchangeable.

The brewing process is a simple chemical reaction. However, without careful hygiene and temperature control it can be easily ruined. If too cold the brewing process will not start or may stall, too warm and the results can be explosive. Bavarian monks developed a process called bottom fermentation. Brewing took place in cool cellars, which slowed the fermentation process and caused the ingredients to sink to the bottom of the vessel. This meant the brew had to be stored longer but was less likely to fail. The German word for storage is 'lagerung'.

Using the lagering method did not produce the clear, light-coloured lagers we know today. This was developed in the nineteenth century in the Czech town of Plzen (better known by its German name Pilsen) using a particular type of malted barley and very soft water, which did not leach out the colour. Around the same time Czech glass makers mass-produced drinking glasses, which enabled the drinker to see the clarity of the beer.

Keg or the real thing?

English brewers continued to use the traditional ‘top fermentation’ method. Whilst producing beers of great depth and character, it can be unreliable and is more expensive to make. This traditional or ‘real ale’ is a living product which continues maturing in the barrel. It needs careful handling and good cellarmanship to keep it in peak condition, and has a limited shelf life.

In the 1960’s consolidation of the brewing industry meant dozens of small brewers were swallowed up by larger ones. The new ‘super brewers’ wanted beers that were consistent, easy to dispense and would last.

By pasteurising beer, the bacteria which makes fermentation possible but eventually causes it to sour, are killed off through heating. The beer is then stable, has a better shelf life and does not need skilful handling. The trade off for this consistency is a characterless and flat beer, made gassy by adding carbon dioxide.

These ‘keg’ beers were heavily marketed and for a time were the ‘trendy’ drinks; Watney’s Red Barrel led the Red Revolution and Double Diamond ‘worked wonders’, but not for long. The new products became old and were replaced with numerous, long forgotten substitutes. Some traditional ales were turned into keg beers, keeping the name but not the taste, a step too far for some.

Those who knew their beer were appalled at the flavourless fizz and were angry that their traditional beer was being replaced with this pale imitation. In 1971 the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) was launched and became so successful that even some of the big brewers began to produce traditional beers again. Today CAMRA has more than 75,000 members.

Real ale has had its ups and downs. The big multinational brewers prefer to concentrate on high turnover drinks, whatever’s in them. Many regional real ale brewers are doing well and there has been an increase in the number of producers, albeit some on a very small scale. Despite this, overall, real ale consumption is declining.

This website supports real ale and gives details of those sold by the pubs wherever possible, but cannot guarantee the quality of the beers on sale. Some are included in the CAMRA Good Beer Guide or have been awarded the Cask Marque, an independent trust which inspects pubs for their beer quality.

What’s brewing?

To brew beer you need water, malt, yeast and hops. You mash them all together, boil them up, cool them down, strain them and you get beer. Well not quite.

Water – straightforward enough, but its mineral content will have a crucial affect on the flavour and colour of the beer produced. It must also be of a consistently high quality if used commercially.

Malt – grains such as barley and wheat are soaked, germinated and baked. Starches released in the grain turn to sugar, which react with the yeast. Subtle differences in malted grains will produce completely different tasting beers. Again quality is everything.

Yeast – is the spark that makes the brewing process work. Yeast is a fungus, it digests the sugars in the malt and secretes alcohol and carbon dioxide. Yeast forms a foamy head at the top of the brewing vessel (top fermentation method) but can be hard to control.

Hops – are added during the brewing process as a preservative and add bitterness and aroma. There are dozens of different types, each with their own character and flavour.

The basic ingredients may be similar, but the choice of varieties, quantities and brewing method can have a drastic affect on the taste, colour and strength of the beer produced. Lager, stout, porter and barley wine are all beers but vary wildly in appearance and taste. The brewer’s choice is further widened by adding fruits, herbs, molasses, honey and spices.